This is Dave Vick, IATSE #274
Master Carpenter/Flyman/Rigger,
Wharton Center for the Performing Arts,
Michigan State UniversityWe thank Dave for his contribution to our site. "These knots brought to you courtesy of a tattooed rigger-type guy on the flyrail." :-D |  |
| In this case, a batten needs to be secured, to keep it from swinging. Here's a length of 3/8" cotton sash cord, which was clove-hitched to the pipe. We'll tie it off to the rail, breasting it slightly upstage as we go... These hitches are normally tied 4-5' from the securing point, to provide adjustment range. For this demo, I'll tie it ~3' above the rail, so I can fit it into the camera frame. |  |
| Grasping the bight of the line, twist two or three turns in it, forming a loop. |  |
| Pull the bight _below_ the loop you formed through the loop, forming yet another loop. This is the "tie-off" loop that'll do the actual work; the first loop merely secures this one in the line. |  |
| Pass the working end of the line around whatever fixture you're tying off to. In this case, since the line is ~100' long, I'll use another loop in lieu of a bitter end. (the following photos will clarify this.) This has no detrimental effect on the strength or ease of operation of the hitch. |  |
| Pass the working end/loop of the line through the loop formed in steps 2 & 3. |  |
| Pull on the working end/loop to put tension in the lines. The mechanics of the hitch work along the same lines as a block & fall... |  |
| Once the desired amount of tension is applied to the lines, secure it by tying two half-hitches around the working part of the lines, below the working loop. ...And there you have it! |  |
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